World trend, fermentation food
It is what we can make what kind of experience into while traveling or is always excited. Above all, encounter with delicious thing may occupy important position on trip for anyone.
Though gorgeous dishes are good, unforgettable taste, taste to want to eat again are simple, simple dishes which breathed in unexpectedly history and culture that local, root by all means. In late years "fermentation meal" that attracts attention from the world will be one of the representative things.
Enzyme which the microorganism such as bacteria, yeast, mold or microorganism has acts to organic matter and inorganic matter such as sugar when we easily say fermentation and points to producing alcohol, organic acid, carbon dioxide. Though various reduction action by microorganism is carried out on the earth, people call useful action with fermentation for human being in particular in that (to disadvantageous thing with putrefaction). Therefore fermentation is originally included in brewing of liquor and alcohol, not only production of fermented food but also environment purification that microorganism performs from fermentation industry such as organic acid and amino acid, antibiotics in the natural world.
However, after all, fermentation which is the most imminent for us is fermentation about meal. Fermentation food is important keyword that becomes trend in person of dishes of the world now.
Bread and wine, fermentation with yeast fungus including cheese were often found, but, speaking of representative fermentation food in the world, original fermentation that bacteria such as lactic acid bacteria, microorganism including yeast fused "ricemalt (koji grows on) bacteria" which were Japan's original mold bacteria complicatedly in Japan has been performed.
Created fermented food is assumed liquor first in Japan and is said to be in Jomon period with thing, Yayoi period when the history sails up. Preservation food to exceed long winter by there being various bacteria having developed because of the soil of high temperature and humidity among the seas in every direction, the more four seasons was necessary, and Japanese fermentation technology accomplishes evolution originally. Although it was thought with "act of 8 million God" once, in late years the mechanism has been gradually clarified, and global Japanese dishes boom, dainty food boom are combined, and hot eyes are poured into Japanese fermentation food from the world.
Fermentation kingdom, Noto
At place that has been laid unique unique fermentation food in the country in Noto Peninsula in Japan which was such a fermentation country why on earth. At first, it is necessary to read the ground called Noto from history-like viewpoint climate, geography to investigate the reason.
Though you should go for a drive and know the seashore, Noto Peninsula has really a variety of shorelines. The topography unlike the reef shore called gaiura, Rias coast called UCHIURA, shallow for a good distance from the shore sandy beach Coast forms coastal Mikata. Climate is different from raging gaiura in UCHIURA facing calm gulf, and seasonal wind is different in type of marine products of course to be endowed with.
Furthermore, distance of the sea and mountain and village which people live for is near as there is little ground where low mountain and a lot of hills are flat. People of Noto brought up living while having relation with both sea and mountains closely. Tanada is made to surge into the sea, and houses are displayed at the striking distance, and scenery that village forests grow thick to hold communities more can be also known as representative scenery of Noto.
Because of such complicated topography, as for the produced ingredients, variation is richness, so-called multi-kind small lot for each area. Seaweed which types of fishery products are different in area and the four seasons, but several kinds are always landed, and complicated shoreline brings up 30 kinds or more. Including vegetables wild plants, mushrooms (there seem to be mushrooms inhabiting only in Noto) that 17 items called Noto vegetables are traditional let alone rice about farm products, anyway, there are many types.
In addition, preservation to be over long winter peculiar to Hokuriku, technique of processing were polished. Food is corrupt before splashing water to process food with high temperature and humidity in summer of Noto. Therefore it is said that technique to let food ferment by power of microorganism developed. It will be related that abundant rice and salt becoming the woof of fermentation were produced.
Furthermore, a lot of remains of Jomon period are found in Noto Peninsula when we sail up historically, and it is revealed that people ran living from those days. As it is said that fermentation of liquor might have been carried out from Jomon period, we can imagine that fermentation technology of Noto Peninsula has deep history.
In the times when sea route was the center, it becomes entrance of trade with the Korean Peninsula and prospers with goods-carrying merchant ship in the Edo era. It became so-called "remote place" (remote place) after the center of movement turned into land route, but traditional technique and culture remained strongly as a result that it was left without being swallowed up by wave of modern globalism (in good meaning).
Is simple; the coarseness, essence ISHIRI SOY SAUCE of jet black
It is "ISHIRI SOY SAUCE" made in Noto-cho that is characteristic in fermentation food of such Noto by far. So-called "gyohishio" which is near Thai nam pla and Vietnamese nuoc mam with ISHIRI SOY SAUCE. "shottsuru" of Akita is famous in Japan, but ISHIRI SOY SAUCE seems to be gyohishio proud of the best amount of production in Japan above all.
Seafood produced in the area well often becomes raw materials, and "ISHIRI SOY SAUCE" calls thing made with sardine and mackerel with "Ishiru", and gyohishio of any place divides thing made with squid with it is here Noto.
In excellent production center of ISHIRI SOY SAUCE, the OGI (ogi) port in Noto-cho, festival to eat up squid called "cool fair" thoroughly every year in fishing port of the Japanese finest to boast of catch of fish of squid along with Hokkaido and Aomori to in May is performed and is area where sightseeing interchange facility called "mall accompanied by station of squid" gives opening plan and town on April 22, 2020 and built relations that are close to squid.
Thought that refrigerator did something for fresh squid unloaded abundantly in the few times and wanted to save developed processing technique of local people. Around port of OGI which squid-fishing fishing boat is lined with in season, fir tree squid, shiokara of squid, producer processing squid including Kurozukuri still remain including ISHIRI SOY SAUCE. kaneishi is one company of those, too.
"We do not know the origin of ISHIRI SOY SAUCE clearly, but it is said that production began at the time in the middle of the Edo era. We think that the internal organs of squid are preservation food that came out of wisdom that we want to use thoroughly. In house, we made ISHIRI SOY SAUCE in the days of the future charges as far as I knew. We processed squid fried in front in shop such as boathouse in old days in the neighbor of shop."
Raw materials of ISHIRI SOY SAUCE only as for the internal organs and the salt of squid. It is said that how to make is very simple.
"The training of ISHIRI SOY SAUCE begins at winter end. We put into tank and stir the internal organs and salt of squid and fix condition afterwards so that salt in tank turns around by equally for Golden Week when temperature and humidity rise. We let you entrust climate of nature from there and ferment. We ferment between (in spring) of the first-year equinoctial week with and the end (in autumn) of the equinoctial week lively and enter with drop of temperature afterwards during aging period. Aging period is long, and taste becomes mellower. Until the completion, it is approximately one and a half years."
Heavy taste and unique fermentation smell that the liquid which praised deep jet black like totally thick soy sauce shut in squid entirely are characteristics. There seem to have been a lot of people to "be weak in ISHIRI SOY SAUCE" from strong flavor to be able to be also known as Wilde in hometown.
"Taste of ISHIRI SOY SAUCE might think myself "to be harsh". We just often use ISHIRI SOY SAUCE in the old days and good how to use is this area, but thinks that it was not revealed. We send recipe to eat ISHIRI SOY SAUCE deliciously while selling ISHIRI SOY SAUCE in house."
It is usual for travel destination to seek taste that we can eat only on the spot then as pleasure in searching various recipes using ISHIRI SOY SAUCE after returning. "We often rank sashimi. We visited shop that to mix with soy sauce a little, and eating produced synergistic effect and had "soaked bowl of ISHIRI SOY SAUCE" in USHITSU of Notocho with the help of words of kaneishi to be delicious, and to kick.
To be frank, at first, we have admired the delicate job that several kinds of sashimi lined up gorgeously as we imagined bowl thing which worked of more punch. Furthermore, as soon as carried to entrance, the second surprise. Fermentation smell of ISHIRI SOY SAUCE sublimates to refined sweet smell and gives sashimi which there is elasticity with high freshness elegant flavor. Depth of this taste will not cause with pickles of simple soy sauce and there is few and cannot expect synergism with ISHIRI SOY SAUCE with it is sashimi which lost freshness either. We chewed the taste well while letting voice of kaneishi to "just match seafood as it was food which assumed squid origin" echo through ear.
Shop to be able to enjoy various ISHIRI SOY SAUCE cooking is in Noto-cho as well as Japanese dishes. It is said that Noto Peninsula in particular resembles Italy in the topography, and there are many Italian well-known stores where we fully made use of charm of ingredients of the ground in. It is to secret ingredient which opens flavor of dishes to several levels when we use unique smell of ISHIRI SOY SAUCE for sauce. We arrange zuke keo and, in addition to tomato sauce, will have carpaccio and pickle the internal organs of seafood and. Anyway, ISHIRI SOY SAUCE can feel existence through one dish of one dish freely when it is changing seasoning.
Authority, Takeo Koizumi, teacher of Japanese fermentation food world write down book about ISHIRI SOY SAUCE in "world heritage of meal that Professor Koizumi chooses" in this way.
－- that it is mysterious gyohishio as we completely fall when we know the essence of dishes with this as secret ingredient
As for the ISHIRI SOY SAUCE, both material and manufacturing method are simple. Therefore it is said that difference in taste is delicately born by builder. We buy several kinds of ISHIRI SOY SAUCE for souvenir of trip, and it is pleasant to compare by eating. Trip in search of ISHIRI SOY SAUCE and ISHIRI SOY SAUCE dishes which oneself had seems to be counted as new way of enjoying in here Noto-cho.
Scenery of village which the U.S. candy draws
Fermentation that attention gathers in these days, and the mechanism is elucidated scientifically. However, for old people, it began from discovery that it was near accidentally "that became delicious though we did not somewhat understand well" and was technique that piled up experience, "it was in the same way if we did this process", and was established.
"The U.S. candy" which Yokoi store in MATSUNAMI continues making has traditions 500 years or more. What was manufactured by each family once, but technique is cut off by war or the U.S. lack, and just remain in Notocho only in Yokoi store. During long history, it has been demanded from local person as precious sweetness. Yokoi 1,004 good luck in succession to Yokoi store is proud of skill of several decades.
"Raw materials of the U.S. candy are rice, barley. We steam rice and do barley on "palm" which we let you germinate and made powdery. Starch of rice saccharifies, and the cause of sweetness is completed when we let this and hot water ferment at a night in mixing. Thing which boiled down thing which filtered that for about five hours until it becomes amber is the U.S. candy. Temperature-controling is the most important for the making of U.S. candy, but what we ascertain as we make with experience and perception is always serious. If climates are different, we change at quantity of hot water and time to boil down. Of rice even if stop by so that there is, vary according to water temperature. As temperature of stone around pot is different every day, it is tough. As we cook with one cauldron, we throw all away when we failed. It becomes sour without becoming sweet and may become bitter."
The unique U.S. candy which brings gentle body and sweetness if it is rich and uses for the making of dishes and cake as a substitute for sugar. As the very beginning nutritive value is high, it is useful as later good self-care meal during illness. At the time of cold, it is delicious in addition to ginger soup even if we make ginger hot water with syrup. It is attractive to be able to get sweetness with rice which is more familiar to oneself if it rises in viewpoint of macrobiotic no body soil Fiji.
In area of MATSUNAMI that fairs formed a line at mall in front of shop once when it becomes festival, it is cake and Yokoi who wakes up, and provided candy pop. Main shaft of shopping moved to supermarket of downtown now, and local stores decreased, and fair disappeared, too. Still it is still demanded, "we want you to make the U.S. candy" from local person.
"We bring in rice and crushed rice which we cannot eat at oneself, and saying that we want candy to do is. We make with pleasure."
Finally Chiyokichi added in this way brightly when he apologized for having been the night.
While "we are up, house turns on electricity of shop. When student and somebody went, town should be bright. It is intention as store."
Do, and it is not sub sub, the secret of pickle
There is such deep fermentation food which keeps delicate balance of meal as there is one article, and winds up tongue in taste in unexpected flavor to Noto while being a person that it is far to be gorgeous. It is pickle.
It is made basic rice bran (rice bran) in pickle, fermented food in many families of Noto soaking, is, so to speak, taste of Momma. We soak vegetables produced in their fields in salted rice-bran paste handed down to houses. Though there was opportunity to eat many times in restaurant in Noto-cho, we were shocked by refreshing sweet smell which always passed through nose straight. It is exception with commercial thing really. That is natural, too, and, let alone vegetables, there is no help for it as surely in the first place rice laying groundwork for rice bran is terribly delicious.
There is thing which soaked sardine and mackerel in rice bran (rice bran) entirely except that soak vegetables in Noto, and "do not come, or soak"; toyobareteiru. It is begun to knit as emergency rations in case of famine of the Tenpo era and is cause of protection of Kaga feudal clan, one article handed down to date. After removing head, scale, the internal organs of fish, and soaking fault in salt, and having done, we pickle to salted rice-bran paste which we seasoned entirely and ferment. We are glad now as we can purchase even super of Noto. Be filled with unbearable good flavor when we warm lightly after dropping rice bran, and having sliced to hit, and it is to one article of affinity preeminence with both white rice and liquor. It is delicious to mix with pasta.
In addition, it is one of the characteristic fermentation food of Noto-cho that "Ben is soaked" that we pickled daikon and eggplant, cucumber in mysterious black extract, ISHIRI SOY SAUCE of squid. This Ben is soaked and, surprisingly, raises charcoal to clay charcoal stove and, after that, we bake brown and eat. It looks good much more than nice smell of ISHIRI SOY SAUCE adds to reason though we do not know by baking and eats raw.
Fermentation food as calendar and culture of Noto
Japan is country of fermentation. There is many "good old" fermentation food which "it is the same as the old days" to "reach for a long time" whether there was intention to protect or passes through time, and it remained.
However, we cannot but feel thing which is slightly different from such a nostalgic impression so as to touch if we touch fermentation food of Noto. In the first place ancient people beat their brains, and fermentation appetite occurred in "to save which we survived". However, there seemed to be element unlike something like feeling of pressure to fermentation food of Noto. On the other hand, water vein which is different from healthy, fashionable fermentation food, gastronomy-like fermentation food at all talked about in dainty food boom of these days, Japanese dishes boom drifts. Why is it?
There was the cord for proprietress who ran guest house with Ben who was Australian chef in Yanami, Noto-cho district overlooking inland sea of quiet ripples "aimlessly", words of Chikako Funashita.
In "Noto, there was festival in the center of calendar all the time from the old days."
In Noto, festival is only to the number of communities. We have heard that life of people in Noto turned around mainly on festival to be held once a year. When food was not tied to festival, Chikako continued asking.
"We soak this at this time, and there is cycle training to do this at this time, but, for Noto, all are viewpoints to "have you eat delicious thing at the time of festival" seasonally. For feast of festival, cycle to make fermentation, preservation food turns around. Therefore proud dishes of all which we made with delicious thing of one year including biography waruhinezushiya, beans and wild plants at the time of festival in each house line up."
I see. Fermentation food was respected "culture" that had been refined on the stage of festival in Noto.
Was correct, or it was more fun by appearance, and various invention was done by this liquor to let festival that was ground of fine weather in processing technique that was born to eat simply, and to survive or to use ingredients thoroughly in the root moisten more. As a result, fermentation food of Noto changed for multi-layer more across range of simple meal. Crafts thought of step that let artistic beauty fuse with functionality to be design.
furattosanha continues still fitting traditional fermented food handed down to Noto by traditional method seasonally. We provide dishes which crossed the fermented food which proprietress fits in new recipe that Ben suggests. furattosantoiu existence was felt in highlight of fermentation culture of Noto.
There were night, rim which left Noto-cho and was entertained with meal in home of local person.
Sashimi, goma-ae, pickled garland chrysanthemum, soup of mushrooms, white rice formed there a line. The menu was very beautiful. All seasonings are very refined, and they are simple. A lot of types of fish equalling one dish have very good each balance. Fatty thing, thing with thick sweetness, stiffness stiffness and resistance to the teeth are fun. Anyway, we are surprised whether the body of raw fish has such abundant "taste". Young, holy incense did garland chrysanthemum, and, as for the white rice, small sweetness heavy inside was clogged up, and homemade pickled substituted.
Though you said that it was saying "there is really nothing" while treating, person who cooked dishes thought that that was not modest and might be the real intention. Surely they always eat this beautiful meal here. We felt such.
Note: Yuko Tsurusawa